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TRIP REPORT: Air Serbia, Belgrade - Mostar

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TRIP REPORT


Written by Miroslav Al. Mešanović

The trip started as most trips do - planning. I was impatiently waiting for Air Serbia to publish the flight schedule for Mostar and to start sales. So, on February 14th I bought my return ticket to Mostar for 11.500 Serbian dinars (around 100 euros). The flights are operated on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays, and I opted to depart to Mostar on Friday and return on Sunday. Both flights were bound to be operated by Marathon Airlines. Following the unpleasant events on February 18th, the scheduled aircraft was changed to an Airbus A319 and then in early April again switched to Embraer 190 operated by Bulgaria Air.

On the day of the departure to Mostar I boarded the regular bus line 860i (Beograd BAS – Baric Industrial zone) because this line is very convenient – after Belgrade Waterfront the bus heads onto the Belgrade - Zagreb highway (making stops on the way) until it reaches the cargo terminal at Belgrade Airport (the most convenient stop in the airport zone). From there, it takes less than 5 minutes to reach Terminal 1 of Belgrade Airport. While the bus was passing the C pier, I could already see my bird parked after its previous flight from Nuremberg. In the back, widebody aircraft belonging to Air Serbia (YU-ARB) and Qatar Airways (A7-BCI) were visible. The bus ride took 21 minutes.


Although I always check-in online whenever possible, I do like to pick up the standard industry boarding pass and have my cabin luggage and personal items labeled. This is the second time I had to stand in line since Menzies Aviation took over the ground services operations on behalf of Air Serbia. After waiting for 14 minutes, it was my turn to approach one of the check-in counters at 11:44. After that I went upstairs to clear immigration and security control. By 12:01 I was standing in the recently opened new Duty Free Shop. I almost never shop in Belgrade; the prices aren’t welcoming but I did walk a bit since this was my first encounter with the new establishment.










My next stop was “Biznis Klub” Dufry operated Lounge at Belgrade Airport. The lounge appears to have been reduced in size, it no longer has dedicated restrooms and cutlery, and coffee cups are disposable. From what I understood, listening to the staff – the lounge is to be moved into another area at the end of the summer season and until then everything will be low-cost as at this moment. Nevertheless, the lounge still offers cold cuts, Serbian bottled wines, beer, juices, water, coffee, and additional (two) options for lunch and dinner. The well-known prepacked Dufry bun sandwiches have been replaced by larger 3rd party sandwiches. Since both Lounges at Belgrade are located near Gate A4, and my assigned gate for this flight was C12, I left the Lounge at 12:55, passing by huge crowds waiting to board the flight to Lisbon at gate C02.




Seven minutes later at 13:02 I was at my gate, pleasantly surprised by seeing a bunch of passengers. As it would later appear during the passenger count by the crew, there were 69 passengers on both of my flights! The capacity of the Embraer E190 is 108 seats. Boarding commenced at 13:18, and apart from boarding special assistance passengers and passengers traveling with children, there was no zoned boarding in place. I took my seat 01F by the window. By 13:30 boarding was completed, the passenger manifest, including a celebrity – Mr Ivan Curkovic (Mostar born football goalkeeper of FK Velez, FK Partizan and Saint-Ettienne, as well as the former president of the Serbian Olympic Committee). An interesting detail – safety demonstration was in English only – a fact that actually confused my parents back home: “You are flying our national airline; they are supposed to instruct you in your mother tongue”. The doors were closed at 13:40 and at 13:50 the plane started taxiing to Runway 12. Before being cleared for take-off I was content to see planes in line waiting to enter the runway.







Flight JU634 took off at 14:01. 10 minutes into the flight the cabin crew completed the complimentary service consisting of now standard “Plazma keks” package and a small bottle of mineral water. This was my second flight onboard this Bulgaria Air E190 jet (the first was JU350 to Frankfurt on April 18th). The first two row of seats (Business Silver) are comfier and more premium than the rest, however, rows 1-3 boast quite some leg space. Twenty minutes into the flight we overflew cloudy Sarajevo and continued south to Mostar. The magic begins with stunning Herzegovina scenery that runs all the way to the Adriatic Sea. During final approach we flew over Buna River which is one of many contributories to Neretva River (on which Mostar lies). After 35 minutes up in the air, the plane touched down at Mostar Airport at 14:36. The airport has no bridges and the passengers disembark the aircraft using two pair of stairs then walking to the immigration control. I was among the very first passengers to disembark and by 14:46 I was landside sporting my “Mostar” passport stamp. Immigration control boasts two stands only. The small arrivals area was packed with people waiting for the arriving passengers. Since regular bus service is non-consistent, I took a cab to the city, which costs around 8 convertible marks for a 7-kilometer ride.












Mostar is one of the most charming cities in the former Yugoslavia and I would personally advise everyone to spend 2 days, ideally 3 in case you decide to visit the surroundings as well. Apart from the Old Bridge (Stari Most) the city is known for its many mosques, the highest church belltower in Bosnia-Herzegovina, poets Aleksa Santic (2 monuments in Mostar, depicted on 10 convertible marks banknote), Osman Djikic, Svetozar Corovic… and its beloved football club Velez (the other football club wasn’t competing 1945-1992), double winner of the Yugoslav football cup in 1981 and 1986. The architecture is a true mix of Venetian Adriatic architecture, Ottoman, Austrian… For stunning views of Mostar, one should climb the Fortica Belvedere and outside Mostar charming towns of Pocitelj, Stolac and Medjugorje await visitors.








Two days later it was time to say goodbye to Mostar and Herzegovina. I arrived at Mostar Airport 1 hour and 45 minutes before flight JU635’s scheduled departure to Belgrade. There were around 20 people outside/inside the terminal, a rather peaceful atmosphere. The terminal building is about the same size as Nis Airport in Serbia, but everything is well organised and brand new with a lot of space. Departures and arrivals landside are practically one medium sized hall with 4 check-in counters, one café bar, toilets, medical room, several travel/rent-a-car offices, one small store and a VIP Lounge (which seems to be still in the final phase of construction). Three check-in counters were dedicated to Air Serbia, one of them for Business Class passengers (definitely for transfer passengers) and one counter for Sky Alps flight to Rome. The airport staff were all extremely helpful and enthusiastic. The departure and arrival boards show all the flights during the week. Quite interesting! Unfortunately, there still aren’t so many flights. The café is lovely because it has tables inside and outside the building with views toward the runway. Is there a better setting for an avid aviation enthusiast? I waited until my Bulgaria Air E190 LZ-PLO landed and only then went through the security and immigration control. The boarding passes and passport are checked electronically before accessing the security control which is performed by the Bosnian Border Force agents, same as the immigration control. Oddly enough, my hand gel in travel size was taken away “because it is flammable and therefore restricted onboard”. Needless to say, I didn’t feel any need to protest.














At 14:39 I was finally airside. I was able to see Gates No 2 and No3, but not Gate No1, however, this space is really limited – it has that Nis Airport feel. There is a small shop and a kind of bar available, as well as toilets (at Gate No 2 area). There is no audio announcement system but the airport staff speaks at loudly. And so, at 14:48 our boarding commenced. Boarding passes were scanned once again, with the longer part being kept by the ground staff. Once seated at my “Business Silver” 02F seat I was able to spot Sky Alps Dash 8-400 9H-ALE arriving to Mostar in order to perform the scheduled flight to Rome (BQ1975).








The plane took off at 15:08, flying southwards and while making a slight turn to west one could wave back to Mostar Airport for one final time. As soon as we were on our route, the captain turned off the fasten seatbelts sign, however, while the crew was distributing the complimentary snacks and beverages, the sign went on again and was kept so until landing in Belgrade. The flight itself was rather uneventful, and I was browsing the Air Serbia in-flight magazine that features a full-page Ad about Mostar being the new destination as well as a news bulletin about the first flight to Mostar. After 38 minutes of flying, the Bulgaria Air E190 landed at Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport at 15:46. At 15:55 I was inside the incoming passengers’ area of the airport and by 16:12 outside waiting for Bus Line 600 that goes all the way to Belgrade Centar (aka Prokop) train station.





Overall, both legs of this trip were a pleasurable experience. Things to note - Belgrade Airport info screen in Cyrillic somehow have an error and show nothing for Mostar. Ground operations at Belgrade are way smoother than before, immigration control being the weak point (but this is a matter for Serbian Ministry of Interior). Mostar Airport is small but run with passion, and people working there do their best. Bulgaria Air - nothing to write home about.


Share your travel experience by submitting a trip report to exyu@exyuaviation.com


June 02, 2024
Air Serbia Belgrade bosnia and herzegovina mostar serbia Trip report
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Comments

  1. Anonymous09:07

    Very cool report! Gotta visit Mostar soon😀

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    1. Anonymous09:10

      I was looking at visiting it and I was surprised how limited the hotel offer is. They should really work on that.

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    2. Anonymous10:41

      Try Booking.com, I'm sure there are a lot of apartments for rent.

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    3. Anonymous10:52

      I know but I prefer hotels. They should fix that if they want to be a serious tourist destination.

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    4. Miroslav M.12:03

      Mostar Old Town still has many of its famous edificies in derelict state (even 30 years after the civil war), including the iconic Austrian period "Neretva" hotel, which finally undergoing renovation. Also, a person tied to the politicians in Sarajevo had constructed a large hotel building destined to be Mariott Mostar, but this project is now treated as a joke by the locals. It's been more than 5 years since the building was completed and still no Mariott.

      There are quite a lot small hotels across the town, and if you decide to lodge at the outskirts of the old town, you may pay as little as 70 BAM per night with breakfast included. Which is a bargain for the most visited town in Bosnia-Herzegovina. When it comes to "large" hotels - there are Bristol Hotel and Mepas Hotel (inside the largest shopping mall).

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    5. Anonymous13:13

      I understand MArriott and Hilton are building hotels currently. So hopefully this drives more tourism to a great place.

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    6. Anonymous14:20

      Yes, now that you said it, they are already working to fix it! Some people...

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    7. Anonymous19:05

      Last Anon what's the point of that stupid comment?

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  2. Anonymous09:09

    Very nice trip report. I am happy to see such a decent load on this route. Who were most of the passengers onboard? Did they look like locals or transfers?

    JU is the best thing to happen to OMO since they offer so many connections via BEG. They really connected Mostar with the world.

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    1. Miroslav M.13:29

      A lot of bags were loaded into the aircraft, but most of these transfers are ex YU folks working/living across the continent, I'd say.

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  3. Anonymous09:23

    Wow, impressive report. Thanks a lot for sharing it.

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  4. Anonymous09:24

    Great report, thanks!
    Mystery remainder how OU and BQ may use turboprops to OMO, but JU still cannot ATR

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    1. Anonymous10:47

      It has to do with aircraft performance. It's not a mistery my friend. I spoke to the Sky Alps Chief pilot last summer and he told me the reason they chose the Q400 for their operation, especially being based in Bolsano region (high terrain), was because it was the only
      (turboprop) aircraft that can get the job done. Those were his words. Mostar has a tricky terrain as well and a fully loaded ATR on a hot summer day simply wouldn't be able to do it. So if JU has to limit the pax load on it, then you may as well send the next best thing, which is the Embraer 😊

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    2. Anonymous10:53

      Looking at the loads which are around 80% on E90 JU doesn't need the Atr as it's too small for BEG-OMO.

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    3. Anonymous10:56

      JAT used to send Cessna 310 to Mostar, on scheduled basis

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    4. Anonymous10:59

      ^ No, it used DC9, B737-300 and ATR42 on its Mostar flights.

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    5. Anonymous18:07

      Yes, they did in the 70's, when Mostar wasn't a pilgrim destination. Then in 80's larger aircraft started to fly like the 733 and DC-9

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  5. Anonymous09:45

    Thank you for your detailed trip report, I enjoyed reading it a lot!

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  6. Anonymous10:08

    Well, You had 'Инструкции за безопасност' in Your seat pocket, there you go. The crew coul very well address you folks in Bulgarian :)

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    1. Anonymous10:54

      I noticed that too and found it quite amusing. Nice to see Cyrillic back at JU.

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    2. Miroslav M.11:57

      Thanks. I was amazed and amuzed so I had to remove the almost brand new instruction card as a memento. :)

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    3. Anonymous12:05

      It is incredible that EVERYTHING at JU, absolutely everything, from bottles to plazma to their magazine is not in national alphabet... WTF.

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  7. Anonymous10:16

    Brilliant report. I enjoyed iwhile reading . Thank you.

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  8. Anonymous10:52

    Nice report. This salami offer in business club looks very appealing

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    1. Anonymous10:55

      Approach to the club isn't. you have to pass by the toilets in a dirty hallway.

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  9. Anonymous11:15

    pretty great trip report. Thanks also for the pictures from Mostar airport

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  10. JSG11:35

    Mostar is absolute a gem like whole BiH, which is still to be discovered.
    It is pretty good load on this route. When I travelled on Croatia Airlines load factor was around 20%.
    I bet most of those passangers were transfer passangers.

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    1. Anonymous11:55

      20% meaning 15 passengers. I regularly fly ZAG-OMO (at least twice per month) and there were never less than 30 passengers. Still load factor is not good but well above 20%.

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    2. JSG11:59

      It was 12 or 13 if I remember correctly.

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    3. Anonymous12:15

      Now is 45 - 50 %

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    4. JSG12:17

      Good to see LF has improved.

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    5. Anonymous06:19

      OMO-ZAG is filled with locals, there are no transfers because flights are too expensive and connections are baad.

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  11. Anonymous11:35

    Great report! Many thanks!
    You said that plane type was changed in the system "after unpleasant events on 18th February"? What happened?!

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    1. Anonymous12:31

      It's was the incident at BEG involving a Marathon air E195 - should be easy to find on Google

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  12. Anonymous12:04

    Excellent trip report.

    What phone are you using to make pictures?

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    1. Miroslav M.13:31

      Thank you. I use Samsung Galaxy S20 FE since July 2021. So, my previous reports here were also shot by this phone.

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  13. Anonymous12:40

    Also ATR72 and
    B727.

    /////

    No, it used DC9, B737-300 and ATR42 on its Mostar flights.

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  14. Refugees Welcome - Smrt Fašizmu12:45

    One place that anyone should do in Mostar is climb The Old Bank ("Staklena banka"). Absolutely unique experience.

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Miroslav M.13:36

      The one near the Spanish Square facing Boulevard and Eastern Mostar, right? I totally agree.

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    2. JSG14:16

      You cannot access the building. It is boarded up.

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    3. Refugees Welcome - Smrt Fašizmu14:34

      Yes thats the one. And it isnt builded up, I was there 10 days ago. You just gotta find your way :) but its ABSOLUTELY best attraction in the Balkans

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    4. Anonymous19:07

      I think the Acropolis is the best attraction in the Balkans.

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    5. Anonymous19:36

      Locally, we used to refer to that building as “Amerika” before the war, as it was to be the first glass-building in the city. It is also a symbol of Balkan-workmenship for taking forever to build anything. It started getting built about a half a century now, ended up being completed just before the war started, got destroyed in the war, never got fully repaired/completed after the war.

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  15. Anonymous13:11

    One of the most interesting reports so far. Impressed how nice OMO airport is. Nice to see a Bulgaria Air plane dressed up in Air Serbia performing an ex-Yu flight. When the Balkans wanna unit, everything changes and history has proven it :) It seems BEG-OMO is doing well

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  16. Anonymous13:23

    Great trip report! I've flown twice on the same flight in May and yo update your report: there is now a bus that drives from the airport to the city and back. It operates half an hour after landing of aircraft and takes you to 6 key stops in the city. Ticket price is 10 BAM (5 EUR).

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    1. Miroslav M.13:33

      Thanks. Seems the bus costs more than the taxi (7-8 BAM to/from Mahala quarter). But nevertheless, good to know!

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    2. Anonymous14:19

      10 BAM? That's suprsingly costly for a short bus transfer

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    3. Anonymous16:00

      If I'm not mistaken, that's the equivalent of 5 euros. If it's too expensive for you, you can walk.

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    4. Anonymous17:38

      5 euros is ridiculous

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    5. Anonymous02:16

      I could not find any schedule of the bus from the city to the airport (I was doing BEG->TIV OMO->BEG open jaw). I always try to use public transportation but had to take a taxi in this case.

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  17. Anonymous13:33

    Excellent report; concise yet informative. Stunning pictures and a lovely-looking airport. You really do feel it’s run with passion, as you said.

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  18. Anonymous14:27

    Mostar seems awesome and deserves more flights

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  19. Miroslav NY15:09

    Nice report. I can't wait to visit Mostar this summer. Earlier this year I drove to Eastern Bosna for the first time and was surprised to see how clean and beautiful it was.

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    1. Miroslav M.15:38

      Try to find shade and drink plenty of water. Mostar was and still is the warmest town in ExYU. And you'll have great time, no doubt.

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    2. Anonymous19:09

      Miroslav will you drive to Mostar since there are no flights from INI?

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    3. Anonymous14:26

      That is correct about Mostar and the heat. I remember one time, when I was working in tourism, I had a group from Australia. They were shown how hot it was in Mostar. Since they were from Australia, I asked them how hot it was for them. They responded that the heat was not only coming from above but also from below, due to all the stones in the old town. 🤣

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  20. Anonymous17:23

    Thanks so much for this report!!:) My mum‘s hometown that was never really accessible from Zurich only via Zagreb at times. Def have to try AirSerbia!

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  21. Anonymous17:30

    69 pax on a plane with 108 seats is a loadfactor of around 65 %.
    Thats not good, dont know why everyone says thats sufficient...

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    1. Anonymous17:37

      They're getting paid for it

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    2. Anonymous18:32

      The service is being subsidised by the local authorities in Mostar.

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    3. Anonymous20:00

      Also, the route was scheduled to be flown by an E175 (capacity of ~80), but which got scrapped due to the whole Marathon incident.

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    4. Anonymous20:52

      So what? If they are getting paid it doesn't mean the seats will be removed so LF could be higher :)

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  22. Anonymous17:55

    Are you able to have checked baggage as the aircraft is smaller?

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    1. Anonymous19:16

      Yes

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  23. Anonymous18:06

    The most readed tripreport 😍

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  24. Anonymous18:16

    What a coincidence. My mum is Bulgarian and used to have a hobby of knitting goblens in te 90s. One of them a huge ship sailing in the Black Sea and the other one was the Mostar Bridge. I think I need to visit it soon. Very cool report!

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    1. Anonymous19:16

      It's a shame flights from Sofia doesn't offer good connections.

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  25. Anonymous08:38

    When I worked for JAT in 80’s / 90,s I used the Belgrade/ Mostar flights for Pilgrims to Medjugorje mainly connecting from the American flights ( also then flights from Far East mainly Philippines passengers)
    I wish them all the best 😀👍

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  26. Anonymous14:27

    A great report! It was always amazing to read these reports between Ex-Yu cities for me.

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  27. Anonymous12:52

    Could ASL not get rid of the Bulgarian safety cards. Sorry Jiri but Serbs, Bosnians and Croats don’t read Bulgarian and many folks probably don’t understand English for safety instructions. I am sorry but this is a safety issue.

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