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Part 1
The idea for this trip was born when LOT announced a new route to the Saudi capital. My initial plan was to buy a simple return ticket, which I sometimes call boring, and then travel within Saudi Arabia. Later, however, I decided to make it more adventurous and booked a multi-destination ticket: Warsaw - Riyadh / Cairo - Warsaw. What happened between Riyadh and Cairo is the subject of this trip report.
LO152 Warsaw - Riyadh
Finally, the day has come, and I am leaving home for Riyadh. Before the journey could even begin, I had to apply for a Saudi visa, something I hadn’t done in quite a while. It brought back memories of a time when visas were required for many countries, especially before the 1990s, when visa-free travel was largely limited to Eastern Bloc countries and Yugoslavia.
The visa application process itself was straightforward. The only real hurdle was the requirement to upload a photo in a very specific format and size, which took me some time to figure out. The final version was slightly distorted, but it was eventually accepted by the system. After making the payment of 395 RAS, the visa was approved within just two to three hours. The visa is relatively expensive, but it is a multiple-entry visa, valid for a full Islamic year, and it also includes medical coverage.
It is a cold afternoon in Warsaw. It snowed lightly overnight, and I am on my way to the airport. Just before leaving home, I receive a text message warning residents of the Mazovian region about potential heavy snowfall starting later this evening. I hope we manage to depart before the snow reaches Warsaw.
Eventually, I arrive at the terminal and head to the designated LOT Polish Airlines check-in area in sections D and E. The check-in process is smooth, and I receive my boarding pass before proceeding to security and then passport control via the e-gates. Both checks take approximately fifteen minutes.
I re-check the departure board for flight LO152 and note the gate 8N, before taking a seat to wait for boarding, which, according to my boarding pass, is scheduled to begin at 14:55.
Close to the originally scheduled boarding time, a new announcement appears on the screen: boarding at 15:15. Shortly afterward, the gate staff calls several passengers to report to the desk, and finally - just four minutes before the revised time - boarding begins at gate 8N.
Some passengers require additional visa checks, which slows the boarding process considerably. A family of five is pulled out of the queue for further verification, and the same happens to another passenger standing in front of me. His visa check takes quite some time. When it is finally my turn, my boarding pass is scanned and cross-checked with my passport. That’s it, no visa check at all. I assume the system already confirms that I hold a valid visa.
I then proceed down the jet bridge to the aircraft: a 6.5-year-old Boeing 737-8 MAX, painted in Bank Pekao livery and registered as SP-LVG. After exchanging greetings with the female cabin crew, I make my way to my assigned seat, 13C.
Today’s flight is almost full, with only a few seats unoccupied, including 13B, the seat next to me. The crowd on board is truly international. Apart from Saudi and Polish nationals, I hear German, Romanian, Italian, Czech, and one of the Baltic languages: Lithuanian or Latvian spoke on today’s flight. For some passengers, Riyadh is the final destination, while others are connecting onward to India and several other destinations. At each seat, there is a set that includes a blanket and a pillow, and by my standards the legroom is perfectly adequate, although taller passengers might find it a bit tight. I have noticed that newer aircraft tend to have a tighter seat pitch than older ones. At each seat, there is a set that includes a blanket and a pillow.
Boarding is completed, and the cabin crew prepares for the safety demonstration, first in Polish and then in English. At 15:56, we begin pushback and taxi toward the runway threshold. Suddenly, the captain announces that due to a minor technical issue, the departure will be delayed, and we are taxiing back to a parking stand. We are informed that engineers have been called and that resolving the issue may take some time.
At 16:55, the captain announces an aircraft change, as the technical issue will require longer than expected to fix. All passengers are asked to collect their belongings, disembark the aircraft, and proceed to waiting buses. The buses take us to the replacement aircraft parked two stands away from the original one. While the cabin crew carries out pre-departure checks, passengers remain on board the buses.
It begins to snow, and the snowfall intensifies by the minute. The forecast was right, the snow has reached Warsaw. At 17:40, the checks are completed, and we are invited to board the new aircraft: a 6.7-year-old Boeing 737-8 MAX registered as SP-LVQ. Once on board, I take the same seat, 13C. The seat pitch is identical to that on the original aircraft.
All passengers were seated comfortably, and the cabin crew repeated the safety demonstration. We then began taxiing to the de-icing area. The cabin crew informed passengers that de-icing was required due to snowy conditions and that it would take 15–20 minutes. After de-icing, we taxied to the runway threshold, and at 18:43 we were finally on our way to the Saudi capital.
Meanwhile on board, the “fasten seat belts” sign is switched off, and the cabin crew provides information about today’s service, which is scheduled to commence in 15 minutes. A cabin crew member then distributes sanitary wipes. The interior of the aircraft is clean and well maintained, and the ceiling is illuminated with mood lighting.
After take-off, we headed north, and after a few minutes made a slight left turn to the south, passing over the town of Tarnów. We then flew over the Slovak city of Košice, the northeastern corner of Hungary, and continued southeast over Romania, passing near Cluj-Napoca and Sibiu, before crossing Bulgaria, over areas including Veliko Tarnovo and Sliven. We entered Türkiye near the city of Edirne.
Today’s service consists of a full hot meal, with two options to choose from: a standard meal (chicken) or a vegetarian option (gnocchi). I chose the first option. Moments later, I received a meal tray containing a bun, a 10-gram portion of butter, a starter (a dish with various seeds and grains, which I cannot name but which tasted fine), a main dish (Middle Eastern–style rice pilaf with chicken, raisins, and nuts - very tasty), and a dessert (a piece of cherry cheesecake, also quite good). The meal was served on thick plastic dishes and looked appealing, but the biggest surprise was the set of metal cutlery, which is a rare sight on economy-class flights. After receiving my meal tray, another cabin crew member offered drinks. With my meal, I chose a glass of white wine, a glass of sparkling water, and a cup of tea with lemon. Overall, the meal was enjoyable, and I really liked it. I would welcome it if airlines brought back hot meals on longer intra-European flights, as this would be a good alternative to the extremely overpriced meals offered at many airports.
Later, the cabin crew offered a paid service (LOT Sky Bar), which attracted some interest. Some passengers decided to purchase various items, myself included. I chose a 300-ml bottle of tomato juice, which, according to some researchers, tastes better on board. This phenomenon, people craving tomato juice during flights, can be explained by changes in taste sensitivity at high altitude. It is believed that low air pressure and low humidity suppress the perception of sweet and salty flavours, while enhancing the sensation of umami. In addition, tomato juice provides good hydration due to its high water and mineral content. After the Sky Bar service was completed, the cabin crew offered additional complimentary snacks. First, a bun with plum jam was served, followed by a second snack: either a chocolate covered wafer with cocoa feeling (20 g) or a heart-shaped iced gingerbread (20 g). I chose the latter, as this iced gingerbread is my favourite. I also asked a member of the cabin crew for a cup of tea with lemon, which was delivered from the rear galley.
The flight passed uneventfully, with only very light, occasional turbulence - nothing serious enough to warrant switching on the “fasten seat belts” sign. During the flight, In in-flight magazine “Kaleidoscope”, I read an article about Rovaniemi, a new seasonal route operated by LOT, and started a book I received as a Christmas gift: “The Smartest Guys in the Room”, a brilliant investigative report written by Bethany McLean and Peter Elkind. I also chatted with a fellow passenger seated in 13A, a Saudi national living in Kraków. He spoke Polish, and I greatly admired him for mastering such a difficult language.
Following our planned flightpath, we pass over the western part of the Marmara Sea and the Cappadocia region until we reach the Mediterranean Sea near the popular resort of Antalya. We then continue south over Egypt. After passing Cairo, we proceed southeast, flying parallel to the Suez Canal. After passing Hurghada, we cross the Red Sea and enter Saudi airspace near the coastal city of Al Wajh. We then continue east toward the Saudi capital, passing Unaizah, before making a slight right turn and descending into Riyadh. We land at the King Khalid International Airport after making a U-turn over the capital. After several minutes of taxiing, we finally park in front of Terminal 1, where the airbridge is attached. After disembarking the aircraft, I proceed to the arrival hall. The first stop is hand baggage screening then passport control, both quick and efficient. Since this is my first entry into the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, my fingerprints are scanned. An immigration officer then asks for my name, and after I reply, he says: “Welcome to Saudi Arabia, Jacek,” which I find very welcoming. I then head to baggage claim at belt 12 to collect my suitcase. After leaving the arrivals area, I pass taxi touts and order a taxi via a mobile app. The taxi arrives in 10 minutes, and the fare is 86 SAR.
Meanwhile, the return flight LO126 departs Riyadh at 03:41 (scheduled departure 01:45) and arrives in Warsaw at 07:43 (scheduled arrival 06:10).
Flight statistics
LF: 95 %
Distance: 3721 kms (2009 nm)
Departure time (scheduled/actual): 15:25/18:43 (local time at the departure airport)
Arrival time (scheduled/actual): 23:05/01:59 (local time at the arrival airport)
Flight duration (scheduled/actual): 5h 40 min/5 h 16 min
Riyadh
Riyadh is the largest city of Saudi Arabia, located in the central part of the country. It is the political, economic, and administrative centre of Saudi Arabia, with bustling business districts, wide roads, vibrant markets, and historical sights.
Travel in Riyadh is easy thanks to an efficient public transport network, which consists of buses and metro lines. To get to the Masmak Fortress, I need to take the Blue Line. It takes me 15 minutes to walk from the hotel to the nearest metro station. Inside, I look for the ticket office to buy a ticket. I ask for a three-day pass (60 SAR). The ticket clerk asks me, “Economy or first class?” Has he asked for first class? I ask myself. Or did I mishear something? To be on the safe side, I ask him to repeat the question, and I receive the same one. I reply, “Economy, please.” Moments later, I receive my card and proceed downstairs to the underground metro platform. While on the escalator, I am still trying to figure out why he offered me first class for a metro ticket. It soon becomes apparent that there is a first-class compartment in the Riyadh metro! Apart from the first-class compartment, there is also a section for “Families” (mainly for women or families) and “Singles” (for men only).
My first impression of the metro is simply wow. It is ultramodern, spotless, autonomous (driverless), fast, and efficient. The list of superlatives could go on and on, but I soon arrive at Qasr Al Hokm Station, which is only a short stroll from my destination. The station itself looks very modern and, from the outside, resembles a spaceship that has just landed, bringing creatures from outer space.
After a short walk, I finally reach the Masmak Fortress, a historic mud-brick fort located in the old quarter of Riyadh, constructed in the late 19th century. It was originally built as a defensive structure and a government outpost under the rule of the Al-Rashid dynasty, which controlled the region at the time. The fortress is made of clay, mud, and palm wood, with thick walls, towers, and a large gate, reflecting traditional Najdi architecture. Today, Masmak Fortress is not only one of Riyadh’s most important historical landmarks but also the birthplace of modern Saudi Arabia. Its significance dates back to 1902, when Abdulaziz Ibn Saud recaptured Riyadh from the Al-Rashid forces, a key moment that led to the unification of the Arabian Peninsula and the creation of Saudi Arabia in 1932.
In the immediate vicinity of the fortress, there are numerous shops and cafés. I stop at one of them for an ice latte (20 RAS) accompanied by dates stuffed with whipped cream (7 RAS), a surprisingly energizing combination that gives me the strength to continue exploring the modern side of the Saudi capital.
Several metro stations away is KAFD Station. The station is adjacent to a financial district of the same name, officially known as the King Abdullah Financial District (KAFD). Construction of the district began in 2007. The main idea was to create an ultramodern business, residential, and financial centre for the capital that would attract investors from all over the world and strengthen Riyadh’s position as the heart of Saudi Arabia’s finance and business sector.
Apart from the futuristic metro station, which reminds me of 1960s visions of what a 21st-century city might look like, the district features over 50 skyscrapers, including offices, hotels, apartments, and retail and service outlets. Numerous public spaces, including walking paths scattered among the high-rise buildings, invite residents and tourists alike to spend the evening there once the sun goes down. I truly feel that I am in the right place, as I am a typical urbanist who feels most at home in the modern, lively, and vibrant expression of a contemporary city.
SV520 Riyadh - Bahrain
After four days spent in Saudi Arabia’s capital, it is time for the next adventure - this time in Bahrain. But before that, I decide to take on a challenge and get to the airport by public transport. So, I leave my hotel and head to a bus stop located at the intersection of two dual carriageways. It is not easy to cross them, as the traffic lights are designed mainly for drivers. Eventually, I get a green light and cross the dual carriageways on my way to the bus stop. I do it in turns, and each section seems to have a slightly different light cycle and high curbs painted in a yellow-and-black pattern. I must lift my wheeled bag over each of these massive curbs. Finally, after battling all of them, I arrive at the bus stop, which is an air-conditioned glass shelter with some benches and a ticket machine.
The bus 150 arrives on time and I swiftly get inside the bus. It is only one bus stop, but even this short distance is quite challenging if you must battle multiple high curbs on your way, especially if some parts of your way is closed for pedestrian due to ongoing construction work.
I get off at the next stop, Al-Murabba 601, and proceed to the Al-Murabba metro station on the Blue Line. The train is very busy today, as it is a non-working day and many immigrant workers are enjoying their day out. To get to the airport, I need to change at KAFD station and take the Yellow Line. The station, like the adjacent KAFD district, is very modern and futuristic. The signage is excellent, and I have no trouble finding my way to the Yellow Line. According to the metro map, the station called Terminals 3 and 4 is the seventh stop from KAFD. I conclude that it will probably take about ten minutes to get there. In fact, the distances between stops are quite large, and the journey takes longer than I anticipated. The entire route of the Yellow Line runs through open areas, and most of the tracks are laid on pylons, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.
The train is not busy, and most passengers get off at the next stations, which serve densely populated residential areas. Only a few passengers continue their journey to the airport. Before we reach the airport area, we pass an enormous university campus, with buildings scattered over a vast area and served by two metro stations. If I were a student again, I would love to study in Riyadh!
The first airport stop is Terminal 5, which serves national carriers operating domestic flights, as announced by a pre-recorded message. The next stop, “Terminals 3 and 4,” is for SkyTeam airlines operating international flights, which is my stop. The train then continues to the final stop, Terminals 1 and 2, for foreign carriers operating international flights. I proceed to Terminals 3 and 4 via a covered bridge that connects the metro station with the terminal building. Terminals 3 and 4 are connected and are like mirror images of each other. The left side is Terminal 3, while the right side is Terminal 4, from which my Saudia flight departs.
There is already a queue of passengers, both in the self-check-in area (stands 401–407) and at the manned desks (408–416). Later, the self-check-in area is closed, and all passengers are served by check-in agents at the manned desks. Most of the passengers are travelling to Dhaka on the flight SV804. Many of them are carrying several pieces of luggage, mostly packed in cardboard boxes of various sizes and colours. One passenger in front of me is carrying two boxes: the smaller one contains a four-season bed cover, while the larger one contains an electric water heater. Eventually, he checks both boxes as hold luggage.
The queue moves quickly, as almost all of the manned check-in desks are operational. Soon, it is my turn. I place my luggage on the scale and hand my passport to the check-in agent. “Are you travelling only to Bahrain?” the agent asks. I confirm. In no time, my bag is tagged for BAH and I receive my boarding pass. I then proceed to the departure area. The first stop is boarding pass verification at an electronic gate - easy. Then comes passport control - quick. And yes, I get a stamp in my passport! (No stamp is given on arrival). Next is security screening, which is a breeze. After leaving the security area, I must walk through a duty-free shop before reaching the departure hall. Inside, there are various shops, cafés, and an information desk - a standard sight in an international departure area. I check my flight details on the displays, but no date has been assigned yet.
According to the information, the gate should be announced at 13:55. With some time still to spare, I head to the food court located on the mezzanine level of the terminal building and order a flat white (29 SAR).
At 13:55, the gate is assigned, and I proceed to gate 431, located on the ground floor. As I go down the escalator, I have a feeling that we will be bussed to the aircraft today. And indeed, at 14:43, when the ground staff announces boarding for flight SV520, two buses have just parked outside. After my boarding pass and passport are checked, I walk down to a bus parked just outside the departure gate. We wait several minutes inside the bus, and then we are finally ready to go. We drive for a few minutes to a remote parking stand located close to Domestic Terminal 5.
The bus drops us off in front of the 7.3-year-old Airbus A320-214 (registered as HZ-AS83), painted in SkyTeam livery. After climbing the stairs, I am greeted by a mixed cabin crew and proceed to my assigned seat, 43A.
While sitting comfortably in my seat, I watch the arrival of the second bus, which has brought the remainder of the passengers. At 15:11, boarding is completed and the cabin crew initiates a safety demonstration video displayed on the cabin screens. The first video is in Arabic (including a sign language interpreter), followed by an English version, this time without the interpreter.
Once the safety video has finished playing, we are finally ready for a short taxi to the runway, which is used for both landings and take-offs. In front of us is Gulf Air flight GF190 bound for Bahrain, which according to the timetable should depart ten minutes after us. Once flight GF190 has departed, we wait for a private jet to land, and then we are ready for take-off.
While we are waiting for permission to cross the runway, a prayer to Allah is displayed on the screens in both Arabic and English, with an additional Arabic sign language interpreter.
Today’s flight is not busy. I reckon only about 20% of the seats are occupied. In my row, there are two more passengers seated in 43C and 43F, but most of the other rows have just a single passenger. The cabin interior is clean and pleasant in appearance. There is a USB port and an electrical socket at the bottom of the seat. The legroom is good and should be acceptable even for a tall person.
Once the “fasten seat belt” signs are turned off, the screens reappear above our heads and display various information, such as flight parameters, the direction of Mecca, and a map of our flight path.
Meanwhile, the cabin crew commences the onboard service. Each passenger is given the option of receiving either a pizza or a cake, and I go for the former. The hot, oval-shaped pizza (130 g) is served in a box that proudly displays the word “Italian”, but judging by the thickness of the base, it is more of an American-style pizza than an Italian one. I truly enjoyed this warm snack, perhaps because it is topped with three types of cheese: Emmental, Edam, and provolone. After all, who doesn’t like a meal with melted cheese? In addition, a selection of soft drinks is offered, including apple, orange, or mango juice, still water, coffee, or tea. I choose a glass of mango juice and a cup of tea without sugar. The juice is served immediately, while the tea (like the coffee) is brought from the rear galley by a cabin crew member.
After take-off, we fly north for a short distance, then turn right, heading northeast and then east, passing the municipality of Shifiyah and the coast of Dammam. During the flight, I observe the desert landscape passing below, consisting mostly of rocks and sand in orangey hues, which dominates much of Saudi Arabia.
After passing the Saudi city of Dammam, we fly over the Persian Gulf towards Bahrain International Airport. At 15:58, the “fasten your seat belts” sign is switched on. After a U-turn, we land at Bahrain International Airport, located on Muharraq Island, adjacent to the Bahraini capital, Manama.
After a short taxi, we park in front of the terminal, where an airbridge is attached. After disembarking, I proceed to passport control, but before entering the area, my hand luggage is scanned. There is a short queue for passport control. I still need to collect my visa, which can be either requested online or obtained on arrival. I choose the latter option. An immigration officer asks me for my address in Bahrain and then for a card to pay for the visa (5 BHD). Once everything is set, my passport is stamped, and I move to the baggage reclaim area.
The bags are already delivered on belt 6. After collecting my luggage, I find an exchange office to change some money, as no card can be used to pay for the bus fare, and only cash or a Go card is accepted. The latter could not be purchased at the airport, so I have no choice but to exchange some euros to pay for the bus fare. At the exchange office, I am asked for my passport and later informed that the office also exchanges Polish zloty, which surprised me. I will remember that for next time. After collecting Bahraini currency, I head to the bus stop and take bus A1 (0.300 BHD) to the hotel.
Flight statistics
LF: 20 %
Distance: 421 kms (227 nm)
Departure time (scheduled/actual): 15:25/15:31 (local time at the departure airport)
Arrival time (scheduled/actual): 16:40/16:21 (local time at the arrival airport)
Flight duration (scheduled/actual):1h 15 min/0 h 50 min
Bahrain
Somewhere in the Persian Gulf lies the tiny, mostly flat kingdom of Bahrain, located on a group of islands. In 1971, Bahrain gained independence, closing its chapter as a British protectorate. Historically, Bahrain was an important centre for trade, especially in pearls, and later became a hub for oil in the 20th century. In the mid-1970s, during a period of turmoil in Lebanon, many financial institutions moved their headquarters to Bahrain, helping it rise as a key financial centre in the Gulf region.
Although small, the Kingdom of Bahrain has a history spanning over 4,000 years. To better understand this rich past, I visited the Bahrain Fort, often called Qal’at al-Bahrain. The fort itself is around 4,000 years old and was built on the site of an ancient city. It served as a defensive structure and the capital of the Dilmun civilization, one of the earliest civilizations in the region.
Over time, Portuguese and Islamic rulers used it for defence, leaving behind walls, cannons, and ruins. Excavations around the fort have revealed ancient houses, temples, and burial sites, highlighting Bahrain’s long history of settlement and trade. Today, it stands as a symbol of the country’s cultural and historical heritage and is an important UNESCO World Heritage site in the Middle East.
The modern economy of Bahrain is diverse. It was one of the first Gulf countries to discover oil, but relying solely on oil revenue would not be sustainable. Today, Bahrain’s economy benefits from finance, tourism, and manufacturing, with Manama, the capital, serving as a regional financial centre. Historically, trade was the main source of income, thanks to Bahrain’s strategic location at the crossroads of Gulf trade routes. The Souk of Bahrain, which has existed for hundreds of years, reflects this legacy. Merchants sold pearls, spices, textiles, and gold, making Bahrain a key trading hub long before oil was discovered. Over time, the souks became not only marketplaces but also cultural and social gathering spots. A visit to the souk offers a glimpse of how trade was conducted in the past.
WY654 Bahrain - Muscat
Three days in Bahrain passed quickly, and now I’m getting ready for a new adventure, the Omani capital. My flight departs at 20:45, so I still have half a day ahead of me with nothing planned. Although I have to check out of my hotel room at noon, I can continue using the hotel facilities until departure. Lounging under palm trees by the pool sounds like a perfect idea indeed.
The sun is going down, which means it’s time for me to get ready for the airport. Slowly, I get off my sun lounger and head to reception to collect my bag from storage. Now I need to figure out how to reduce the weight of my luggage by 2 kg, as the baggage allowance on my Oman Air flight is 20 kg. I decide to take out all the books I brought with me and put them into my backpack. That should do it. Otherwise, I might be asked to pay an excess baggage fee… we’ll see.
I booked a taxi to the airport through a ride-hailing app, and the taxi arrived within five minutes. The journey to the airport took six minutes and cost 2.650 BHD, as the hotel where I stayed is located between Manama and Muharraq, where the airport is situated. Shortly after, I arrived at the departure hall on Level +1. The hall is clean, bright, and modern. Its shiny, light-coloured floor reflects the lights suspended from the vast ceiling.
Check-in for flight WY654 opens three hours before the scheduled departure at counters B08–B10 in the economy-class check-in area. I also noticed that five minutes before my flight, a Gulf Air flight GF566 to Muscat was scheduled to depart. A separate check-in area for first- and business-class passengers is located adjacent to the B counters.
A zigzag-shaped queue has already formed. Most of the passengers are of Indian origin, connecting in Muscat onward to various Indian cities. Many of them are carrying luggage, some with only a small amount, while others have large quantities. The queue is moving slowly. Although four check-in counters are operational (an additional counter was opened due to the long queue formed by passengers on this flight), it takes 50 minutes to complete the check-in process.
Finally, it is my turn. I place my bag on the scale and my passport, along with a printed copy of my ticket, on the counter. The printout had been requested by the check-in agent from another passenger, as I overheard. The check-in agent checks both my passport and my ticket. The bag weighs 19.8 kg, which is within the 20 kg luggage allowance. “Did you check in online?” the agent asks. When I confirm, she mentions that I could have used another counter to save time. I reply that there was no information about a designated desk for passengers who had completed online check-in, but that it was fine. I then ask whether today’s flight is busy. She confirms this and explains that it is the holiday season, with many people travelling for leisure. In the meantime, the check-in process is completed: my suitcase is tagged to MCT, and I receive my passport, ticket, and boarding pass. I then proceed to the departure area.
The usual sequence follows, boarding pass verification, immigration control, and finally security screening, all of which take only a few minutes. Having some time to spare, I head to a café for a light dinner. These days, you never know whether onboard service will be limited to a small snack or a more substantial meal. Expecting a late arrival in Oman, I decide to eat at the airport and order a tuna baguette and tea for dinner (5 BHD).
The gate is assigned as expected at 19:15- gate 20B. At 20:18 the boarding is announced, and passengers begin to gather around the gate, forming a long queue. I take a seat nearby and wait until the line becomes shorter. Eventually, the queue thins out, and I make my way to gate 20B.
A gate agent scans my boarding pass and verifies my passport. Everything is in order, and I proceed down the escalator leading to the airbridge. There is a short queue inside the airbridge, and soon I step onboard the six-year-old Boeing 737 MAX 8, registered as A4O-MM.
Inside the aircraft, I am greeted by the purser and walk down the aisle to my assigned seat, 33F. As anticipated, today’s flight is very busy, with most seats in both economy and business class occupied.
The cabin interior is clean and pleasant. It is predominantly finished in neutral light grey tones, while the seats are upholstered in blue and light-blue fabrics that complement the overall colour scheme. In front of each seat, there is an individual screen. The leg room is fine by my standards.
Boarding is completed, and the mixed-gender cabin crew makes the final preparations for departure. There is no live safety demonstration; instead, the safety instructions are displayed on the screen in front of me, first in Arabic and then in English.
The video presentation not only provides the information required by aviation regulations but also showcases Oman’s natural and cultural wonders. All scenes are filmed outdoors, with silhouettes of cabin elements later added as animation to draw passengers’ attention to the safety instructions.
Eventually, we are all set and ready to go. Several minutes pass with no progress. Later, the captain informs passengers that, due to operational limitations at Bahrain Airport, our departure will be delayed by approximately 15 minutes. A few minutes before 21:34, pushback is initiated and we begin our journey to the Omani capital. After a short taxi, we pause to allow another aircraft to land. Finally, at 21:34, we take off, make a gentle U-turn, and continue southeast over the Persian Gulf.
In the meantime, the seatbelt signs are switched off and the cabin crew commence the onboard service. Each passenger receives a sandwich, either chicken or vegetable, and a 100 ml cup of still water.
The flight is largely uneventful, though not entirely turbulence-free. Somewhere over the UAE, we encounter an area of light turbulence and the “fasten seatbelt” signs are switched on for a few minutes. The ride then smooths out again. Later, we pass over Dubai, cross the Omani border, and continue parallel to the Persian Gulf coastline.
For the remainder of the flight, I watch our progress on the moving map and play a game of Mahjong. After crossing into Oman, we begin our descent, and the cabin crew commence the pre-landing cabin checks.
The flight continues along the Omani coast, and we then touch down smoothly at Muscat International Airport. After taxiing, the aircraft parks at a gate adjacent to the terminal building, and we disembark via an airbridge. Inside the terminal, I follow the signs toward the baggage reclaim area.
At immigration control, I join the queue for counters marked “Tourists”. When it is my turn, I am asked about the purpose of my trip and the duration of my stay. My fingerprints are taken, and after my passport is stamped, I am cleared to enter the country.
Before reaching the baggage reclaim area, my hand luggage is scanned. I then proceed downstairs on an escalator to the reclaim hall. I stop at the information display to check which belt has been assigned, but an airport staff member standing nearby asks where I have arrived from. When I reply that I arrived from Bahrain, he further asks, “On which flight - Gulf Air or Oman Air?” After I confirm it was Oman Air, he directs me to Belt 6, where my suitcase has already been delivered.
Meanwhile, the driver of my pre-arranged taxi sends me a WhatsApp message informing me that he is waiting at Exit B. After collecting my luggage, I proceed through customs via the green channel, but I am directed to a scanning area where I am asked to place both my hold and hand luggage through an X-ray machine. I then head to Exit B to meet the taxi driver. Twenty minutes later, I arrive at my accommodation.
Flight statistics
LF: 98 %
Distance: 827 kms (447 nm)
Departure time (scheduled/actual): 20:45/21:34 (local time at the departure airport)
Arrival time (scheduled/actual): 23:25/23:43 (local time at the arrival airport)
Flight duration (scheduled/actual): 1h 40 min/1 h 10 min
Muscat
Muscat is the capital city of Oman and one of the oldest cities in the Middle East. It lies along the Gulf of Oman, surrounded by rugged mountains and a stunning coastline. The city has long been an important trading port, connecting Arabia with Africa and Asia. Today, Muscat is admired for its blend of tradition and modernity, the natural beauty of its coastline, and its impressive architecture.
Travelling in Muscat is mostly based on taxis, as the public transport network is not well developed. I had no choice but to download a local app to book taxis, which by European standards are inexpensive. For example, an 8-kilometre trip cost me approximately 1.500 OMR, while a ride to the airport was about 2.500 OMR - a very reasonable price for such convenient transportation.
My first stop was the Royal Opera House Muscat, one of Oman’s most iconic cultural landmarks, showcasing the country’s dedication to arts and heritage. Built using high-quality materials such as Omani marble and wood, it reflects exceptional craftsmanship and blends traditional Omani design with modern sophistication. Opened in 2011, the opera house hosts a wide range of performances, including opera, ballet, classical music, and international concerts. Beyond its cultural significance, it is also an important destination for visitors from around the world.
Next to the opera house lies the Opera Galleria, which houses around 50 boutiques, cafés, and restaurants offering luxury fashion, jewellery, perfumes, and fine dining. Noble quietness, shining marble floors, and a subtle scent in the air create an atmosphere of refined, understated luxury.
A short stroll from the opera house lies one of the most popular spots in Muscat - Qurum Beach. It attracts many residents as well as tourists staying in the elegant hotels that line the coastline. Omani beaches are known for their natural beauty, clear waters, and peaceful atmosphere, and it is no surprise that the sandy shores of Qurum are ideal for walking, relaxing, and enjoying the sea view.
Today is a lazy day, and there is no place for rushing. After a long walk along the wide sandy beach, I stop at one of the peaceful cafés, where I order a latte (1.200 OMR) and a fresh pomegranate juice (2.000 OMR). Freshly squeezed juice has no comparison to what can be bought in shops. I particularly enjoy the taste of pomegranate juice - sweet and sour, with a slightly astringent note that refreshes me instantly. Sipping my drinks, I watch the surroundings, which seem to move in slow motion.
EY695 Muscat - Abu Dhabi
After spending three full days in Muscat, my short stay in Oman comes to an end. Time passes quickly, and before I realize it, it is already the day of my departure. Early in the morning, I pack my belongings, check out of my accommodation, and order a taxi to the airport.
The drive through the capital is calm and unhurried. As the taxi makes its way toward the airport, I think about my next destination, Abu Dhabi, and wonder how the city will welcome me. Eventually, the terminal building comes into view, and the driver drops me off at the departure area.
Check-in for flight EY695 is already open in Zone F, check-in desks F1-F3. There is no queue at the check-in desks, and I am called forward immediately. I place my luggage on the scale and hand my passport to the check-in agent. “Only to Abu Dhabi?” he asks. I confirm, and then he asks whether I live in Abu Dhabi. I reply that I do not. “How long are you going to stay there?” he asks. “Two days,” I answer. He then asks where I am traveling next. I tell him. “I suppose you have a ticket for the onward journey?” he adds. I confirm and ask whether I should show it to him. He declines and instead asks for my mobile number. Once all the information is collected, my bag is tagged to AUH, and I receive my boarding pass and passport back.
I then proceed to the security area, passing through the modern interior of Muscat Airport’s departure hall. The hall is filled with a subtle scent of incense, which gives it an oriental charm and complements the modern interior.
The first stop is the boarding-pass check at the e-gates for international and domestic flights. After scanning my boarding pass, I reach immigration control, where my passport is checked and my photo is taken. Once everything is in order, an immigration officer stamps my passport with a round red exit stamp (a blue rectangular one is issued on arrival), and I move on to the security area. All these steps take no more than ten minutes.
I check the flight status on the departure monitors. There is no delay and no gate assigned yet, only the message: “Gate to be assigned at 16:30. Shop and dine.” So I follow the advice and take a walk around the duty-free area, but nothing really catches my attention. Apart from the standard duty-free shops, there are several other stores selling a wide range of merchandise, from jewellery to high-end cosmetics, as well as a pharmacy, cafés, and food outlets, including branches of popular fast-food chains. I take a seat in a café and order a cup of tea (2.400 OMR), observing the passengers—many of whom are wearing traditional clothing that follows Islamic customs.
A few minutes past 16:30, the gate is finally assigned (C8) and I proceed to Pier C. Some gate agents are already preparing the area, and soon it opens for passengers. A small queue has formed, but all the necessary checks (boarding-pass verification and passport cross-check) take only a few minutes, and I proceed down the stairs to the seating area on Level +1.
At 17:00, the gate staff announces boarding for the flight. Business-class passengers are called first, followed by Groups 1 and 2. Boarding continues in sequential groups. My group, Group 5, is the last to be called. Once my group is called, I proceed to the aircraft via the airbridge.
Today’s flight is operated by an 11.6-year-old Airbus A320-232, registered as A6-EIX, which completed its previous segment from Abu Dhabi as EY694. My seat, 6D, is just behind the last row of business class, giving me a chance to observe how passengers are greeted in that cabin. The business-class layout is 2+2 (economy 3+3), with wider and seemingly more comfortable seats.
Each business-class passenger is welcomed individually by a cabin crew member, on today’s flight, Emmanuel, who introduces himself and explains the service for this short flight. He goes around to inform passengers that the service will include a cold sandwich, a piece of cake, and hot and cold beverages. I also overhear that this flight is Emmanuel’s last segment of a busy day as a flight attendant. During boarding, all passengers are offered welcome drinks according to their preference. By 17:30, boarding is completed. The flight is nearly full in both economy and business class. The cabin hosts an international mix of passengers: seasoned travellers, occasional travellers visiting relatives, businessmen on work trips, and what appears to be a multinational school group, likely from an international school.
The cabin interior shows some signs of wear but is well maintained and clean. The light and dark brown upholstery, combined with beige and dark brown seat elements, contrasts nicely with the neutral cabin tones, giving the interior a refined and sophisticated feel.
Then the diverse cabin crew member (as announced to the passengers) stand-by to a safety demo presentation completed in Arabic and in English. In meantime, the pushback starts and we are taxing to the threshold of the runway and are airborne at 18:09. After taking off we make U-turn then continue west. After 15 minutes we tun slightly right and continue northwest passing the UAE border near the Emirati city of Al Ain continuing towards Abu Dhabi.
Meanwhile, in the cabin, the crew begins the onboard service. Each passenger in economy receives a paper bag “The Good Life”, containing a cheese sandwich, a small sachet of masala sticks, a 150-ml bottle of still water, and a KitKat chocolate bar (13.5 g).
The flight is short, and time passes quickly. To follow the progress of the flight, I connect my laptop to the onboard Wi-Fi, which allows passengers to watch movies, listen to music, play games, and track the flight on their own devices. Soon, we begin our descent toward Abu Dhabi Airport. At 19:04, the approach is aborted, and the aircraft suddenly climbs again. Later, the captain informs passengers that due to a sudden change in wind direction, we were unable to land on the first attempt and had to make a second approach. After circling the airport, we descend once more and finally land safely.
After taxiing, we park at a remote stand and are transferred to the terminal building by two buses. Inside, I follow the arrival path. As expected, most passengers head to the transfer area, while approximately one-third follow the signs for baggage claim and exit. The walk is rather long, requiring me to go up and down until I reach the passport control area. Within a few minutes, I approach an immigration officer sitting behind a desk. No prior visa arrangement is required, but my photo and fingerprints from my right hand are taken. Once completed, I am allowed to enter the UAE.
Next, I check which baggage belt my bag is on (belt 7) and I am reunited with it in no time. I then stop to buy a Hafilat Card and head to the bus stop area to wait for the A2 bus. The bus arrives on time, and after tapping my card (4 AED), I take a seat. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes, bringing me near Electra Park, where my accommodation is located.
Flight statistics
LF: 98 %
Distance: 381 kms (206 nm)
Departure time (scheduled/actual): 17:50/18:09 (local time at the departure airport)
Arrival time (scheduled/actual): 19:00/19:23 (local time at the arrival airport)
Flight duration (scheduled/actual): 1h 10 min/1 h 14 min
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Amazing adventure jsg, many thanks for sharing this story with us. I wonder what's the catch with Saudia's A320 seat configuration, like it has 40+ rows or what?
ReplyDeleteTraditionally, Arabic/ME carriers start numbering from #21. ;)
DeleteInteresing, didn't knew that. Thanks!
DeleteThank you. As mentioned earlier the numbering in economy starts from 20 or 21.
DeleteWonderful report as always. Thank you
ReplyDelete+100
DeleteThank you both.
DeleteWonderful trip report, thank you so much!
ReplyDeleteYou welcome 😀
DeleteGood and thorough report. Well done!
ReplyDeleteThank you.
DeleteA truly wonderful report, I was travelling in my armchair. Thank you for that.
ReplyDeleteI am glad you could travel in your armchair 😀
DeleteA hell of a report, truly amazing.
ReplyDeleteThank u very much!
Thank you for your kind words. 😃
DeleteGreat trip report, I am also planning such a trip this year as I have only visited Dubai many times in the region.
ReplyDeleteAmong the 4 cities, which was your favorite and how were the vibes in the other cities? And was Riyadh as good as Dubai (minus the party scene of course)?
Thank you. My rating below.
Delete1. Abu Dhabi – easy to navigate, best explored by bus and on foot. The city features impressive infrastructure projects, showcasing modernity and meticulous urban planning. A true parade for urbanists.
2. Riyadh – a combination of ultramodernity and tradition. Some parts of the city are a bit rough, but overall it’s a very cool place.
2. Bahrain – a laid-back place where modernity meets tradition. It gives a unique mix of cosmopolitan energy and cultural heritage. Again some part to avoid.
3. Muscat – compared to Riyadh and Bahrain, Muscat can be more challenging to explore due to the lack of public transportation. However, there are plenty of beautiful places to visit, and you should definitely spend some time on the wide, sandy beaches, which are absolutely amazing.
Wow, what a trip, thank you for this report!
ReplyDeleteThank you
DeleteAmazing report. Thank you very much. Two questions: 1. did you have to buy all the tickets separately? and 2. would you recommend doing a multicity trip like yours (covering the same cities) with a 10year old kid (he is already used to fly quite a bit)?
ReplyDeleteThank you. Most of the tickets were purchased as one-way tickets, except for a multi-destination ticket: Warsaw – Riyadh / Cairo – Warsaw. In general, the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries are well connected by air.
DeleteIf your kid is used to traveling by air and all the airport controls, he or she should be fine. I don’t foresee any issues in Riyadh, Bahrain, or Abu Dhabi. In Muscat, it may be more challenging due to the lack of efficient public transportation, so my recommendation is to use taxis in Oman.
Thanks for this. It literally makes me plan out a Middle East trip this November. Will save this one for ideas.
ReplyDeleteThank you. Middle East is full of surprises 🙂
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