Written by jsg

Luxembourg. The tiny country of Luxembourg, tucked between France, Belgium and Germany, is a true gem. Walking through its capital is an experience in itself. The streets are remarkably clean and well maintained, with the old town offering a pleasant maze of narrow streets and small squares. Charming squares surrounded by cafés and restaurants invite visitors to sit down, enjoy a meal and simply soak up the lively atmosphere.

Its historic layout creates an almost orderly pattern in some areas, while the city’s elevated position provides spectacular views over the surrounding valleys and low, wooded hills. One of the most beautiful parts of the city is Grund, the picturesque lower town nestled in the Alzette valley. Its narrow streets, historic houses, stone bridges and riverside paths create a completely different atmosphere from the elegant upper town, making it one of my favourite places to explore on foot.

The contrast between its industrial past, historic old town, charming Grund and prosperous modern districts makes Luxembourg particularly fascinating. The modern Kirchberg district offers another face of Luxembourg, with striking contemporary buildings, financial institutions and European institutions creating a distinctly international atmosphere. Here, it is particularly easy to see the country’s successful transformation from a coal and steel industry into a modern economy built around financial services and international business. When the offices close, their employees fill the bars and restaurants, creating a lively after-work atmosphere. Because why rush home, right?

LG8857 Luxembourg – Vienna. On the morning of my last day in Luxembourg, I received an email informing me that my luggage had arrived and that I could either collect it at the airport or call the provided telephone number to arrange delivery. I chose the first option, as it would allow me to travel light to the airport and enjoy another half day in Luxembourg.

Around 3 p.m., I checked how to get to the airport. Google Maps suggested bus 6, which runs directly from the edge of the city centre. I boarded the bus and took a seat. No ticket was required, as most public transport in Luxembourg, including trains, is free of charge within the country's borders. The bus passed through the European District and several residential areas and, after a short stretch on the motorway, I finally arrived in front of the terminal building at Luxembourg Airport.

First, I went down to the arrivals level, located on level -1, and rang the bell. Someone soon answered, and I explained that I wanted to collect my luggage, providing my PIR number. I was asked to wait while someone brought it out. Indeed, a few minutes later, a representative of the handling company appeared through the door and handed me my bag.

I then went up to the ground level to get something to eat. At a bakery and café, I bought a sandwich with Parma ham and shavings of Parmesan, together with a latte, for EUR 13.50, and took a seat. At a quarter past 4 p.m., I proceeded to the check-in area.

Check-in for flight LG8857 (codeshare OS7086) was not yet open, so I waited for a few minutes. Soon, a zigzag queue began to form for Luxair check-in at desks 05-23, although it moved quickly. Before long, I reached the check-in desk, placed my luggage on the scale and put my passport on the counter.

“Where are you flying to?” asked a young blonde woman behind the counter.

“To Vienna and onwards to Belgrade,” I replied.

Soon, everything was arranged, and I received my boarding passes and passport back. I was also informed that my luggage had been checked through to Belgrade. I thanked her and proceeded to the security checkpoint, conveniently located within the check-in area. The security check went smoothly, and I soon entered the departure hall.

With still some time to spare before boarding, I browsed the duty-free shop. Taking advantage of travelling outside the EU, I bought a one-litre bottle of Martini Bianco for EUR 7.30. Later, I made my way towards the gates and took a seat to watch the runway while waiting for the boarding announcement.

Luxembourg Airport has a pleasant and modern interior, with large glass surfaces allowing plenty of natural light into the terminal. The neutral colours and clean lines create a calm and contemporary atmosphere. The combination of glass, metal and light-coloured finishes gives the airport a pleasant, modern character, making the travel experience feel like more than just a way of getting from A to B.

My flight was initially delayed until 18:40 and was later pushed back again, this time to 18:48. At 18:22, the gate staff made the pre-boarding announcements, and two minutes later, passengers were invited to board according to their group numbers. My boarding group was 4, so I patiently waited for my turn.

Eventually, my group was called. After my boarding pass was scanned and my passport checked, I left the terminal building and walked across the tarmac towards the aircraft parked nearby: a five-month-old Embraer E195-E2, registered as LX-LEB.

Inside, I was greeted by a cabin crew member and proceeded towards my assigned seat. While I was busy taking some pictures, I failed to notice that two sets of stairs had been attached to the aircraft for boarding. I had taken the front staircase instead of the rear one, meaning that I had to pass several passengers as I made my way to my seat. Once seated, I found the legroom acceptable by my standards, with enough space to sit comfortably for the flight.

At 18:48, boarding was completed. The flight was busy, although not completely full, with several unoccupied seats, including the one next to me. The interior of the brand-new aircraft was clean and pleasant. The blue faux-leather seats contrasted nicely with the neutral light-grey interior. I also noticed that the faux-leather seat covers on this aircraft were noticeably brighter than those on my previous Luxair flight, LG5782 from Stockholm.

The cabin crew then stood by for the safety demonstration, which was conducted in Luxembourgish, French and English. The captain then made an announcement apologising for the late departure, explaining that the aircraft had arrived late from Edinburgh. She warned us that we might experience another 30-minute delay because of heavy traffic over southern Germany. Despite this warning, the pushback eventually began at 18:51, and we soon taxied towards the runway. We took off at 19:02.

After a U-turn, we continued our flight over Mersch before heading east towards Germany. After a slight right turn, we passed over the German cities of Würzburg and Nuremberg before entering Czech airspace.

Meanwhile, the cabin crew commenced the onboard service. Each passenger in economy class was offered a choice of sandwiches, either cheese or salami, together with a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. I opted for the cheese sandwich, accompanied by a glass of Luxembourgish crémant and a glass of water. Later, I also asked one of the cabin crew members for a cup of tea.

The flight was somewhat bumpy, and the captain switched on the “fasten your seat belts” sign on several occasions. Apart from the turbulence, however, everything went smoothly.

At 19:56, the captain announced our descent towards Vienna. Soon afterwards, the cabin crew began their pre-landing duties. One of the cabin crew members then offered sweets to all the passengers. I had not seen this custom for ages, and I vaguely remembered it being a common sight on board back in the 1980s, at least on domestic routes within Poland. I suppose sucking on a sweet is a simple and pleasant way to help equalise the pressure in the ears and prevent the uncomfortable sensation of blocked ears during descent.

After entering Czech airspace, we passed the city of České Budějovice and, later, the Austrian town of Horn. Following a final 90-degree turn, we lined up for our approach to Vienna International Airport at Schwechat.

After landing and taxiing across the airport, we parked at a remote stand. We then left the aircraft and boarded a bus that took us to the terminal building, bringing the final leg of my journey from Luxembourg to Vienna to an end.

OS725 Vienna – Belgrade. The bus dropped me off in front of the terminal building. Before reaching the G-gates, I had to climb a few steps and make several turns, passing through passport control on the way. I used the e-gates, so the process was quick, and I soon reached the G-gates area, which is used for non-Schengen flights. My gate had not yet been assigned, as the information was due to be announced at 20:50. With still two hours to go before boarding, I took a seat and waited.

The time somehow passed quickly. I checked the nearest departure board and finally saw the gate information: C32. At around 22:00, boarding started at the gate and was organised by group number. I was in group 3, so I had to wait a little before my group was called. When the time came, I scanned my boarding pass, and a ground staff member checked my passport. I then followed the crowd to the bus waiting outside. The first bus took some of the passengers to the aircraft parked at a remote stand. It took another bus and a minivan to transport all the passengers booked on the flight.

Once on board, I took my assigned seat, 9A. The flight was almost completely full, including Business Class in rows 1–5, with only a few individual seats left unoccupied. Luckily, the seat next to me was one of them, giving me a little more space around me. The cabin interior is clean and designed in neutral, light colours, complemented by distinctive red elements. The grey faux-leather seats add a modern and simple touch to the overall appearance.

At 22:30, the captain made a welcome announcement. Six minutes later, the cabin crew announced that boarding was complete and made a separate announcement to the passengers, followed by the safety demonstration in German and English.

At 23:43, we began taxiing towards the runway, and five minutes later, we were airborne. The legroom is more than adequate, providing enough space to feel comfortable throughout the flight.

Shortly after take-off, we turned left towards the southeast, passing over Sopron. After a slight right turn, we continued past Lake Balaton and later flew over Pécs.

The onboard menu is called “Austrian Melangerie” and offers a varied buy-on-board selection, including Austrian specialities, sandwiches, wraps, hot meals, snacks and sweets. Prices range from around EUR 2.50 for a small snack to EUR 13.80 for a hot meal. The drinks selection includes coffee and tea, soft drinks, juices, beer, wine, sparkling wine and spirits, generally priced at around EUR 2.50–8.00.

A passenger sitting in an earlier row bought two 330-ml beers for himself and his travel companion. The two beers cost EUR 7.90 as part of a special deal, compared with EUR 4.50 for a single 330-ml bottle. The flight was a short one and passed quickly. At 23:16, the “fasten your seat belts” signs were switched on, and at 23:24, the captain informed the cabin crew that we were beginning our descent. Before the cabin crew commenced their pre-landing duties, each passenger was offered a Mozartkugel, a traditional Austrian chocolate-covered marzipan sweet. Meanwhile, we crossed the area around Šamorín and, after passing Sremska Mitrovica, made a slight right turn for our final approach to Belgrade, where we landed at 23:42. After taxiing across the airport, the aircraft parked at a remote stand.

Today’s flight was operated by a 14.2-year-old Embraer E195LR, registered as OE-LWO. After disembarking the aircraft, a bus took us to the terminal building. Inside, I followed the signs for the baggage reclaim area. It was a rather long walk, involving a flight of stairs, several corridors and another set of stairs leading down to passport control. There was no queue, so my passport was checked and stamped almost immediately. I then proceeded to the baggage reclaim area, where I found my bag already waiting on belt 2.

After collecting my luggage, I headed outside to the bus stop in front of the arrivals area. I waited for bus 72N, which would take me to Republic Square, just 350 metres from the hotel I had booked.

Belgrade. I have visited the Serbian capital several times and am already familiar with most of Belgrade’s main sights. This time, however, I decided to explore a completely different side of the city: Novi Beograd, with its vast residential blocks, monumental public buildings and unmistakable Yugoslav modernist architecture. There was also a personal reason behind this choice. I grew up in a similar type of residential development, so I wanted to see how these neighbourhoods were planned and built in Yugoslavia and compare them with the areas I remember from my childhood. At the same time, I wanted to test a claim I had heard more than once: that Belgrade is the most Brutalist city in Europe. So, that was the plan.

But before exploring Novi Beograd, I needed to find somewhere to have breakfast, or perhaps brunch, considering the rather late morning hour. I could not decide what I fancied, so I simply picked a restaurant at random not far from Republic Square and settled in for my morning meal. The breakfast cost 1,680 RSD and gave me enough energy to fulfil my plans for the day.

After breakfast, I walked across Brankov Bridge towards Novi Beograd. Almost immediately, I noticed that something had changed. The embankment along the Sava looked as if a major transformation was underway. On the opposite bank, construction work was in progress, and I made a mental note to explore that area properly another day.

After crossing Brankov Bridge, I was greeted by a group of high-rise residential buildings in Block 21. From the bridge, the six-tower complex known as “Šest kaplara” (literally “Six Corporals”) is particularly hard to miss. The buildings were predominantly assigned to members of the Yugoslav People’s Army, which explains their military nickname.

I left the towers behind and continued straight along Bulevar Mihajla Pupina. Then I noticed a massive building on the opposite side of the street. I crossed over to take a closer look at “Palata Srbija”, one of the most monumental buildings in Novi Beograd. Completed in 1959, the enormous H-shaped structure originally housed the Federal Executive Council of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. After the dissolution of Yugoslavia, it was for a time known as “Palata Federacije” (the Palace of the Federation) before eventually becoming “Palata Srbija”, or the Palace of Serbia.

I spent several minutes walking around the building, taking in its architectural details. Despite its enormous scale, it is remarkably restrained. The monumental H-shaped layout, the perfectly repetitive rows of windows and the sheer symmetry give the building an almost intimidating sense of order. There was another detail I noticed: an unusually large number of police cars parked around the building. For a moment, I wondered whether I had somehow stumbled upon a police headquarters. A little research later confirmed that this was not the case. After about ten minutes resting under a tree, I crossed the street again and continued between the residential buildings of Block 30. I followed Bulevar umetnosti, eventually disappearing behind the nearby Mercator shopping centre.

And then I found another architectural curiosity: SIV 3. Completed in 1980, this distinctive building combines a rough concrete structural framework with a strongly modernist layout. What immediately caught my attention were its unusual yellow-orange reflective glass windows. The tinted glass contrasts dramatically with the raw concrete façade, giving the building a rather unusual appearance. Local stories even suggest that the distinctive tinted glass was chosen partly to prevent outsiders from seeing the government officials working inside. Whether that story is true or simply one of those architectural urban legends, the windows certainly make the building memorable.

I wondered what offices or companies were located in the building, so I walked closer to the main entrance and found out that it is a government building housing the “Uprava za strance”, Serbia’s administration for foreigners. If I ever need to deal with the immigration office, at least I know where it is located.

Leaving the yellow-glass building behind, I diagonally crossed the intersection of Bulevar Zorana Đinđića and Ulica Omladinskih brigada and entered Block 33. I walked through the inner courtyard between the residential blocks, following the pedestrian paths through the neighbourhood. And finally, I could see it. The Genex Tower! Or, more precisely, the Western City Gate.

I had been looking forward to seeing it, but getting closer turned out to be rather depressing. The tower that once housed the Genex offices is now largely abandoned and looks more like a ghost tower than an architectural icon. Broken windows, shattered glass and damaged ceramic tiles give the building an atmosphere of complete neglect. Even the empty and devastated water feature around the complex adds to the feeling that something has been lost. The contrast is particularly striking because the other tower, the residential one, is still relatively well maintained and lively. And it feels almost like a confrontation between life and death.

I continued through Blocks 29, 25 and 22, gradually making my way towards the Sava River. And then came one of the highlights of the day. The Sava Centar. Opened on 14 May 1977 after an extraordinarily fast construction period, the building immediately became one of Belgrade’s most recognisable examples of late Yugoslav modernism. With its enormous glass surfaces, dramatic geometric concrete structure and futuristic silhouette, it looks as if someone had decided to land a spaceship directly beside the Sava. The building has often been compared to a spaceship or a concrete ship, and standing in front of it, the comparison is easy to understand. Its huge glass walls reflect the sky and the river, while the heavy concrete structure appears to float above the transparent entrance areas.

By the time I returned to my hotel, I had had enough of concrete, glass and socialist-era urban planning for one day. Then, I checked the pedometer on my phone. 26 kilometres. That was enough Novi Beograd for today.

JU634 Belgrade – Mostar. It is time to leave Belgrade and return to Mostar. After checking out of the hotel, I quickly make my way to Zeleni Venac to catch bus 72. The bus is already at the stop and is due to leave in three minutes.

One interesting thing I did not expect was that public transport in Belgrade is free of charge. I first realised this two days ago, when I arrived from Vienna and was waiting for bus 72N. When I checked the website of the public transport operator in Belgrade, it stated that all buses were free of charge. My first thought was, “Oh, just like in Luxembourg!”

The bus leaves on time. The route is rather long and passes through vast areas of the Novi Beograd district, as well as Blocks 61–64, which are easily recognisable by rows of identical apartment blocks built to gradually decreasing heights. There are dozens of them standing in a line. I need to pay a visit to this area and examine these buildings close up.

The bus continues through the suburbs of Belgrade before entering the area of Surčin. Here, Serbian seems to be gradually disappearing, being replaced by Chinese, which appears to dominate the area. There are Chinese shopping centres, cafés and restaurants, as well as Chinese companies offering various services, including advertising. It feels as if the beginnings of a Chinatown are taking shape here. Who knows? In a few years, perhaps this area could even transform into the kind of Chinatown we know from other parts of the world.

The bus drops me off in front of the terminal. It is a busy day, with many passengers travelling to various destinations. I check the departure board to see where I should check in for my flight to Mostar. The designated check-in desks are 201-212, and there is already a queue forming there.

Three passengers who had initially been standing in the queue soon leave after a ground staff member informs them that passengers travelling to New York should use the designated check-in area at desks 213-217. The queue moves quickly, as almost all the check-in desks are staffed.

Finally, it is my turn. I place my suitcase on the scale and put my passport on the counter. The check-in process is efficient. After confirming my final destination and asking whether I prefer a window or an aisle seat, the agent tags my bag with OMO and hands me my boarding pass and passport.

With still some time to spare, I head to a café located just before the entrance to the old terminal building, now known as T1. I order a large macchiato with milk for 450 RSD. After finishing my coffee, I make my way across the terminal and up to level +1, where passport control and the security checkpoint are located.

First comes passport control. For some reason unknown to me, Polish passport holders cannot use the e-gates, so I have to join the queue for nationalities that are not eligible to use them. The queue moves slowly, with many of the booths unmanned. It takes approximately 15 minutes to pass through passport control and receive another stamp in my passport. The security check that follows, however, is a breeze.

Once in the departure hall, I check the departure board again, but the gate has not yet been assigned. It is due to be announced at 12:35, so I walk around looking for a free seat. On the way, I pass a vending machine that, among other products, also offers freshly brewed coffee. This time, I go for an espresso, which costs 250 RSD. After 12:40, I check the departure board again. This time, the gate has been assigned: A01. I make my way to the gate area, take a seat and wait for boarding to begin.

At 13:16, the gate staff initiate the boarding process. Passengers are called in groups, with four lanes (zones) used to organise the queues. My zone is 2 and it does not take long. After scanning my boarding pass and having my passport checked, I proceed down the airbridge towards the aircraft parked outside.

Today’s flight is operated by a 14.5-year-old Embraer E190STD, registered as LZ-SOF and operated by Bulgaria Air, the national carrier of Bulgaria. The aircraft is painted in the so-called “eurowhite” livery.

At the aircraft door, I am greeted by a cabin crew member and proceed to my assigned seat, 12A, which is in an emergency exit row.

At 13:30, boarding is completed. Two minutes later, the all-female cabin crew makes a welcome announcement to the passengers, followed by a safety demonstration presented in Serbian and English. The cabin is OK, although it shows visible signs of wear and tear. The legroom is fine by my standards.

The flight is busy but far from full, with around 30% of the seats remaining unoccupied. At 13:44, the pushback procedure begins, followed by the start of our taxi towards the runway. At 13:53, the captain informs the cabin crew that we are about to depart. One minute later, we take off.

After departing Belgrade, we head southwest, flying over western Serbia before crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina. We continue towards Sarajevo, with the mountainous landscape of Bosnia and Herzegovina clearly visible below.

Meanwhile, onboard, the cabin crew distributes a 30-gram pack of salty sticks and a 250-ml bottle of water to each passenger. The flight is really short, and at 14:07, the captain informs us that we will soon begin our descent towards the destination airport. The descent begins at 14:09.

While browsing Air Serbia Magazine, I come across an article about Dina Milovanović, whose face seems strangely familiar. Perhaps I saw her passing through the airport while I was waiting for the gate announcement for this flight.

At 14:14, the “fasten your seat belts” sign is switched on, prompting the cabin crew to begin their pre-landing duties.

From the Sarajevo area, we turn southwest towards Mostar, following the valley between the surrounding mountains. As we approach Mostar Airport, the aircraft makes a wide turn to the south of the city before turning back north towards the airport. We finally land at Mostar at 14:31, with the surrounding mountains and the Mostar valley providing a spectacular view.

After a short taxi, we park directly in front of the Mostar Airport terminal building. We then walk the short distance across the apron in the 37-degree heat to the terminal.

Inside the arrivals area, I go through passport control and receive yet another stamp in my passport. I then proceed to the baggage reclaim area to collect my luggage. Interestingly, my suitcase is hand-delivered to what I call “the secret part” of the terminal, located on the left after passing through passport control.

With my luggage collected, I head outside and catch the yellow Mostar bus to the city centre, which costs EUR 5.00. As I am the only passenger on board, the driver asks me where I would like to be dropped off. I reply, “Španski Trg”. After several minutes, I get off near Spanish Square, where my accommodation is located.

Mostar. Mostar is beautifully situated along the emerald-green waters of the Neretva River, with the famous Stari Most rising above it. The iconic stone bridge connects the two sides of the city and has become the unmistakable symbol of Mostar. Around it lies a charming old town filled with cobbled streets, historic stone houses, small shops and cafés, while the river and the dramatic mountains create a spectacular backdrop.

I like it when the sun goes down and the restaurants and cafés start filling up with people. A buzz hovers over the Old Bridge, with tourists constantly climbing the steps, polished smooth by millions of feet that have passed over them. Beneath the bridge, the emerald-coloured waters of the Neretva flow calmly through the city, as if nothing had ever happened here.

Yet just a short walk from the postcard-perfect Old Town, there are other, much darker reminders of Mostar’s recent history. Among them are the ruins of the so-called Staklena Banka, or “Glass Bank”. Construction of the striking modernist tower began in 1987, but the building was never completed or opened as a bank. During the war, its height and strategic location made it a valuable military position, and the unfinished structure was heavily shelled and badly damaged.

What makes the ruins particularly striking is their location next to what was once the front line. The Neretva effectively became a dividing line between the opposing forces, with fierce fighting taking place in the surrounding streets and buildings. At one point, I noticed some people climbing the stairs inside the ruins. Oh, there must be a way to get in there, I thought. Indeed, right next to the graffiti at ground level, there was a hole where the main entrance was supposed to be. It took me no time to get through it and start climbing the stairs.

The view from the ruins is spectacular. Opposite stands another silent witness to Mostar’s violent past – the skeletal remains of another former bank. Both abandoned structures stand in stark contrast to the beautifully maintained surroundings, serving as haunting reminders of a not-so-distant past.

On my last evening in Mostar, I decided to see a very different side of the city. The Moba Street Food Festival was taking place behind the Old Gymnasium, so I headed there to see what was going on. With food stalls, music and crowds of locals and visitors, the lively festival offered quite a contrast to the war ruins I had been exploring earlier, a reminder that, despite its painful past, Mostar is very much a living and vibrant city.

OU327 Mostar – Zagreb. Early morning flights are not my favourite, but there is no other option if I want to reach Warsaw from Mostar. Initially, I had planned to return to Warsaw on Tuesday, leaving Mostar for Zagreb at 13:20 and connecting to LO614, arriving in Warsaw at 19:35. However, Croatia Airlines changed its flight schedule, leaving me with three options: flying on Monday or Friday at 6:00 a.m., or on Wednesday at 1:10 p.m. The Monday connection did not suit me, as I would have had to leave the day after arriving in Mostar. So, I decided to extend my stay in Mostar until Friday – a decision I was more than happy to make.

There is no bus to the airport at such an early hour, so I needed to order a taxi. I found a local taxi company that accepts bookings via WhatsApp. Alternatively, my Plan B was to go to one of the nearby hotels and kindly ask a member of staff to order a taxi for me. Fortunately, that was not necessary, as I managed to arrange one via WhatsApp at 4:30 a.m.

Indeed, the taxi was already waiting for me. Soon, we were heading towards the airport, passing through the empty streets of early-morning Mostar, which was still fast asleep. It took us approximately 15 minutes to reach the airport, and the fare was 19.70 BAM.

The taxi driver dropped me off in front of the departures area, which at this hour was still rather sleepy. Two check-in desks were designated for flights 1 and 2. There was no queue, and the whole check-in process was a breeze. The check-in agent informed me that my bag had been checked through to Warsaw and attached the luggage tag.

The security and passport control area was not yet open, so I headed to a café located in the opposite part of the terminal. I ordered a macchiato with milk and a 500-ml bottle of Leda water, paying 9.00 BAM in total.

While I was enjoying my coffee, more passengers began to arrive. They gradually gathered around the security checkpoint, waiting for it to open. A few minutes after 5 a.m., some airport staff appeared and opened the security area. I watched the passengers form a queue, which became shorter minute by minute. I slowly finished my coffee and water and then made my way across the terminal to security and passport control. Both checks were quick. Oh yes, I received yet another stamp in my passport – the fourth one accumulated during this trip.

Mostar Airport is a tiny airport and still has a distinct Yugoslav-era vibe, although it has undergone a partial refurbishment. There are three departure gates located next to each other, but which one will be used for flight OU327 remains a mystery, as all the gate screens are switched off.

At 05:45, airport staff announced that boarding for flight OU327, operated under a codeshare with Turkish Airlines as TK9021, would take place at Gate 3. After the routine boarding pass check, all passengers walked across the tarmac towards the aircraft parked nearby: a 16.5-year-old De Havilland Canada Dash 8-400, registered as 9A-CQF and named Primorje.

Inside, I was greeted by the two-member cabin crew (one woman and one man) and made my way to my assigned seat, 20A, located in the last row. The interior is OK but has visible signs of wear and tear. Legroom is fine by my standards.

At 05:50, the captain made a welcome announcement, followed by one from the cabin crew. A few minutes later, the cabin crew stood by for the safety demonstration, which was conducted in Croatian and English.

At 05:58, the engines were started, and we began taxiing towards the runway. Four minutes later, we took off and soon made a U-turn, heading northwest towards Banja Luka.

I watched the landscape passing below us. Bathed in the warm light of the rising sun, it looked particularly intriguing. After passing the city of Banja Luka, we continued towards the city of Prijedor before entering Croatian territory.

Meanwhile, in the cabin, the crew offered all economy-class passengers – there were no passengers travelling in Business Class on this flight – a 35-gram pack of crackers with olive oil and rosemary, together with a choice of still or sparkling water. This time, I opted for still water, as I find the sparkling water served by Croatia Airlines a little too salty for my taste. I also checked the summer issue of the onboard magazine, which featured an article about the Croatian city of Osijek and the Slavonia region.

The flight was short and uneventful. At 06:29, the captain announced our descent towards Zagreb Airport. After entering Croatian airspace, we made a left turn over the town of Vrbovec before lining up for the final approach to Zagreb Airport, where we landed at 06:44. After a short taxi, we reached our final position in front of the terminal building. We disembarked and walked towards a bus that took us to the non-Schengen arrivals area.

After passport control, where I used the e-gate, I walked through the baggage reclaim area and decided to take a short break outside the terminal, enjoying the morning sunshine for a while.

LO612 Zagreb – Warszawa. It was time to return to the terminal. I still had over 5 hours before the departure of my flight to Warsaw. Because of such a long layover, I had decided to upgrade this flight to business class using one of my Miles & More upgrade vouchers via the Miles & More helpline. Since I already had my boarding pass for the next segment, I proceeded directly to the departure area.

First, I scanned my boarding pass and went upstairs to the security checkpoint. There was a small queue, but it moved quickly, and within a few minutes, I was airside. I then headed to the Premierclass Business Lounge, where I spent the next five hours catching up on my trip report.

At 12:20, I left the lounge and walked to the assigned gate, 24, but boarding had not yet commenced. At 12:25, the gate staff announced boarding for the flight and called for business class passengers. I was the very first to board. I must admit that this doesn’t happen to me often, as I usually travel in economy class! After a walk down the airbridge, just before entering the aircraft, a crew member asked me to wait a moment. She first notified the rest of the crew that boarding had begun and then asked the captain if they were ready to proceed. After receiving the captain’s confirmation, I was welcomed on board and made my way to my pre-booked seat, 3D. Meanwhile, the cabin crew offered welcome drinks to the business class passengers; I opted for a glass of apple juice.

Soon, two more passengers took their seats in business class, and for a moment, the cabin maintained an illusion of exclusivity. This, however, did not last long. A steady stream of lively economy class passengers began filing down the aisle, casually strolling through the business class section on their way to the back. They were, indeed, economy passengers – just taking a brief sightseeing tour of the premium cabin before continuing to their assigned seats. Sitting in business class certainly distorts your perception! 😉

At 12:44, boarding was completed, and two minutes later, the captain made a welcome announcement. The cabin crew then performed the safety demonstration in Polish and English, followed by a pre-recorded summary in Croatian. Soon after, the pushback procedure started, and we began taxiing to the runway. It took us a few minutes to reach the runway, and at 12:59, we took off.

After making a U-turn, we headed northeast, passing the town of Koprivnica, the western part of Lake Balaton, the Slovak city of Banská Bystrica, and the Polish city of Kraków.

Once we reached cruising altitude, the business class service commenced. A tablecloth was laid out, and I was served lunch. Today’s menu featured shrimp with aromatic celery salad and a salad with blueberries, grilled zucchini, herbs and goat’s cheese dressing. The drinks menu included a selection of wines, sparkling wine, beer and spirits such as whisky, gin, rum, cognac and liqueurs. Soft drinks, juices, still and sparkling water, coffee and a selection of teas were also available.

I was then offered a warm bun and asked what I would like to drink. I ordered a sparkling wine and a cup of tea. When asked for my preference, I requested Earl Grey with lemon. Both drinks were served promptly.

Time passed much more quickly in business class, and by 13:57, we had already started our descent. After passing the town of Pińczów, we made a slight left turn and headed north towards Warsaw, passing Kielce. After flying past the town of Błonie, we made a final U-turn before our approach to Warsaw Chopin Airport.

After our final approach, we landed at Warsaw Airport at 14:15. Following a short taxi, we parked right in front of the terminal building. For some unknown reason, the airbridge was not attached. Instead, stairs were brought out, but we were left waiting on them for about five or six minutes because the bus had not arrived yet. Finally, the bus pulled up and took us to the terminal. Today’s flight was operated by a 14.5-year-old Embraer E195LR, registered as SP-LND.

Inside, most passengers checked the departure screens for their connecting flights, while I headed to the baggage reclaim area. My luggage arrived on belt 7 after just a few minutes. I grabbed it, quickly verified my name on the luggage tag, and hurried out to the bus stop. The bus arrived a minute later, bringing me home after an incredible two-week adventure through Europe.